Saturday, December 25, 2010

Eating in Italy

To write a blog about Italy without mentioning food would verge on being outright illegal. Food is part of the Italian culture, the fabric that binds everything together. Food is not eaten, it is experienced. The biggest difference that I noticed right away was that dinner starts late and lasts long. We would often show up to a restaurant at 8:30 and open the place, will the Italians joining around 9:30. And a 3 hour meal is not hard to achieve, which leads to some very late nights.

The Italian dinner experience starts with an apertivo course. This usually consists of cured meats, cheeses, and vegetables. Some restaurants bring several plates to share, while others have an apertivo buffet. This course usually also includes a light alcohol to wet the palate. After the apertiveo course, the Italians usually say “now we can eat”, whereas I’m usually already feeling full. The next course is the Primo, which always consists of pasta. I have tried at least 20 varieties of pasta here and have only begun to scratch the surface of the possibilities. Italians take their pasta seriously! The Primo course can also include soup. Next up is the Secondi course, which is the main meat dish. Italians heavily favor pork, but you can often get beef or seafood as well. Some fancy restaurants offer the premium meats of buffalo and horse (cabello). The meat is usually accompanied by a few sides of vegetables and potatoes. After the Secondi, there is an option for dessert. I have seen this range from fresh fruit platters to exotic chocolate confections. Once the food is done and everyone is thoroughly stuffed, the digestivo course is served. This consists of alcohol like limoncello (my favorite) or grappa. The alcohol is supposed to help the digestive process, which from experience does appear to work. As I write this, the Air France crew is starting to serve dinner which is a good thing because this section has made me hungry!

Traveling to Foggia

The adventure started about three weeks before Christina and I left for our vacation to Italy (purely by coincidence). My manager e-mailed me about an opportunity for a 6-month assignment in Italy and I tossed my name into the hat. Within a week, I found out not only that I was on the team, but also that I was supposed to leave on October 11th (the same day we were supposed to leave on our vacation to Italy). After some negotiation, I arranged to start the assignment on October 26th, 4 days after returning from our vacation.

So it was that on the morning of October 26th I found myself back at Seatac waiting for an American Airline flight to whisk me off to JFK, then Rome. The major difference was that this time I was in First Class to New York and Business Class to Rome. And what a difference it was! Having just returned from Rome in coach with Christina, I was pleasantly surprised by the dramatically better service in the front of the plane. The food was wonderful on both flights (huge steaks, salads, and chocolate cake!). The flights were both on-time and uneventful. My only complaint was that the “lie-flat” seats in business class on the 767-200 would not recline to fully flat (I’d say it was about 150 degrees). Still, I was not about to complain about an all-expense paid trip to Europe!

Landing in Rome was strange because we came in on the auxiliary runway which is almost a mile from the main terminal. After taxiing for almost 20 minutes, we stopped in the middle of the tarmac far away from any gate. After a few minutes the doors opened and we all descended to waiting busses. After a short ride to the terminal, we were dropped off a customs.

For anyone who has not traveled through the Rome airport, I will explain how the customs process works. As with most countries, the first stage is the passport check. The difference in Rome is that the check lasts all of 5 seconds and sometime you have to ask to even get a stamp (to prove when you entered the country). There are no questions, no fingerprinting, no customs forms. The next step is to pick up your checked bags and proceed to customs. The difference is that there is a sign pointing towards the declaration area or the exit. If you have nothing to declare, you go straight to the exit and enter the EU officially. Everyone I’ve talked to gets to the stage and feels like they have entered the country illegally (seems like it really shouldn’t be that easy!). After that point, the only time you have to show your passport is when checking into a hotel or using the internet.

Once in Rome, my mission was to meet up with another engineer who was reporting to Foggia the same day. Our plan was to meet at the car rental counter after she landed (scheduled for about 30 minutes after I did). It turned out that her flight was about an hour late, but I was able to catch up on e-mails during the wait. She rented the car (a diesel Mercedes C220) and we hit the road.

The city of Foggia is located about 3 hours SE of Rome, on the East side of the country near the “spur” of the boot. It is about 20 minutes from the Adriatic Coast and an hour and a half from Naples, on the Mediterranean side. The drive from Rome took us across the mountains to the city of Pescara, then down the Adriatic coast. Foggia is located in an agricultural region which can be described as the Wichita of Italy. The land is flat and the city is a cacophony of densely packed one-way streets with no semblance of order and structure. I had loaded the European maps on my GPS before the trip, but even Garmin became thoroughly confused by the traffic patterns.

We eventually made it to our destination: the Cicolella Hotel. This would be my home for 44 nights while I waited for an apartment to be ready. It’s very hard to describe the Chic, as the Cicolella is known to locals (and Boeing residents). Words just can’t do it justice. The website calls it a 4-star hotel, but many would beg to differ. The hotel décor is about 50 years removed from modern, and most of the rooms are decorated to look appropriate in a 70’s-era porn flick. Mine had velvet walls and mirrors above the bed! What it lacked in style it made up for with an incredibly nice staff, central location, and free internet and breakfast. It was only after the first week that I actually looked at Trip Advisor and was amused to read all the negative reviews of the Chic. Had I read them before the trip I may have chosen another hotel, but I’m glad I didn’t.

The hotel was located in downtown Foggia, 2 blocks from the train station and 3 blocks from the central plaza. The city of Foggia is a lot bigger than I expected. It has several large plazas, a huge park, and some wonderful restaurants. We jumped into work the day after arriving in Foggia, but spent the evenings exploring our new home and eating great pizza, pasta, steak, and buffalo mozzarella. I spent the first few weeks settling into work and meeting everyone in the group. Several folks were staying at the Chic as well, so we had great meals out. Which brings me to my next topic…FOOD!

Back to Italy

As I write this, I am sitting in the back of an Air Fance A330-200 somewhere over Greenland on my way back to Seattle for Christmas. I had quite an adventure getting on this flight, but that will be a story for a different time.

For the last two months, I have been on-assignment in Foggia, Italy working with a supplier that builds the horizontal stabilizer for the 787-8 (the horizontal part of the tail). The goal of the on-site team is to help Alenia produce high-quality parts and get ready for a ramp-up in production. While there are many stories to tell about the job so far, none of them will be posted on this blog for obvious reasons.

What I can talk about are the many adventures that I have had in Italy and beyond. My internet access has been spotty outside of work, so I have not had much chance to update this blog. I’ve been keeping notes and pictures from my travels, so I’ll try to document it “officially” now...